Another new year solo off road drive and hike: The Village of Sal

It has been a complete orbital ride around the sun since I first climbed the highest mountain of UAE. Okay, I drove to the top. That makes it more accurate. This time, I decided to make that destination a back up. I got the latest UAE off road book and Al Qudra lakes looked like a promising place to pitch a tent and welcome the year.
 4:30 pm. The final shift for the year was done. I hurriedly bought my camping food and the promised chocolate cinnabon roll for my best friend who was still at work. Time seemed to be going faster and a granted wish to be in two places in one time would have made everything perfect.



Al Qudra lakes, Dubai



I delivered the sinfully tasty pastry to the hungry friend, we exchanged new year wishes, I left my trip details, explaining where I was supposed to be and what time I have to check in over facebook, and finally, the time I would be back in the city. That is a must for every solo camping trip. They must understand that if they do not hear anything from me, they gotta alert the world that someone stupid is lost.

Abu Dhabi- Dubai traffic was a mess. The road was full of red tail lights from in front of me to infinity. Although the night was clear, cars were only going 120. For this road, that was a drag. I needed to get off the next exit and find an alternative route. The road I found was cutting across some forestation area and finally leading to al Qudra lakes. It was 10 pm when I finally got to the lakes. I was not expecting the camp site to be overcrowded. Cars were lining the lakeside and tents were everywhere. Although the whole camping site was in a party mode, it was not what I came for. I found a place to park and took some photos. 

 

These lakes were developed as a haven for migratory birds and yes, there were big birds by the vegetation along the lake. Although unseen to me, one could tell they were big ones by the baritone, hoarse quacking the make every time someone lights firecrackers.

After taking a few shots, I decided it would suit my intentions best if drove 140+ kilometers to Ras Al Khaima and revisit Jabel Jais. Well, not the exact area I camped to welcome 2015. A small ancient village at the lower part of the mountain seemed roused my curiosity. Grabbing the off road book, I flipped to the route I saved as my plan B, the village of Sal.
 

Ras al Khaima is significantly cooler than the other emirates especially when you are in the mountain ranges at night. I pitched my tent and made my meal. It was now 2 am and a foggy 6 degrees  so the camera had to be in its bag. I cant risk moisture from the fog and condensation inside the tent so I regretfully failed to take pictures of my camp.

The first light of 2016 was obscured by fog and I had no chance of seeing it as I was camped between high peaks to avoid strong winds. Still, the day was awesome! I was on the road to the village of Sal and it was my objective to be there before noon. Making a fresh cup of cappuccino and eating corn I roasted over my fire was enough for breakfast. Power bars were in my bag but I deemed it overkill since i was driving most of the time eating them would add up to adipose in my belly. Although there seemed to be no sweating in this cold weather, water was always in demand. 

The steep road up the mountain was tricky. Crushed rocks were used on the dirt road and often times, I had to make the car crawl since spinning the tires would be a big no-no. There were ascending parts where all I could see was the sky and I was sure that I'd be dangling on the seatbelt on my way down. I felt so alien in land cruiser/patrol country. Still, the 175 horses under the hood managed to pull this 5-year old all stock saloon up the ancient, weather-beaten road to the archeological mountainous village. One final turn and i discovered that I not only reached my goal. I was literally looking down at Sal. The mystical village of Sal that was 1350 meters above sea level was a hundred feet lower from where I was. 

 

Leaving the car in a rather safe spot where it would not be an roadblock, I took by back pack and explored the area on foot. Trekking was tricky. It became apparent that choosing my steps took more time than I thought. There were times when  rocks that look heavy actually move when stepped on as they are the type of light rocks that make a metallic ting when hit. Big boulders demand caution when you approach them, They tend to be likely places where snakes make their home. Luckily, the only wildlife I noticed we mountain goats, bees and doves and falcons.

 

As the sun reached its zenith, I had consumed half the trail water I brought. That was my cue to head back. Retracing my steps down the moon-like terrain was no easy task. I almost lost balance a few times. okay, a lot of times! (no witnesses were there to keep count)

There is always a jubilant sense of completion when you reach the goals you set to your challenging self in hikes like this. Friends often ask me why I do these solo camping or hiking trips. The best response I always give is "why not?" Starting a brand new year with a sense of achievement and completion in day one was not so bad. 



View from above the Village of Sal.

The Archeological Village of Sal is currently being renovated as of time of writing this blog.

New year camp at Jebel Jais

The road to Jabel Jais

As the final hours of  the last shift for 2014 was dwindling down, I knew I just had to make a getaway. The options I had for meeting the year were either to watch fireworks at Abu Dhabi Corniche or just lay back and watch the stars. Being me, I had to pick the latter.

Getting a good spot for star gazing in this country is quite a challenge. Even the deserts in the middle of nowhere are cursed by light pollution. My last attempt to find such a spot in the desert along the Sharjah-Kalba road was futile. With this in mind, I knew finding altitude would increase my chances.

When accessible mountain heights is brought up, the known Jabel Hafeet in Al Ain is usually one's first pick. The name itself makes me feel jaded so I referred to my UAE off road book. Jabel Jais, the highest peak in the UAE became my first pick. With an altitude of 1,925 metres (6,315 feet) I knew I'd be sleeping with shivers. This peak has a history of having heavy snow fall in January 2009. That fact gave me even more gusto in making it there for the new year.



night sights from my camp

Like my other camping trips, this one was no different- it is unplanned. I passed by a shop to get  some food supply. Of course, my camping gear was already in the car. (When was the last time I took them out of the car?) I took 2 coats and 2 sleeping bags. I've had experiences of sudden temperature drops in the desert before, forcing me to sleep inside the car with heater on and that is not happening tonight. After exchanging wishes with the person that matters, I left Abu Dhabi at 10 pm. GPS said the trip would last 3 hours an 37 minutes. I was on my way. Stopping to make sure I had enough petrol before making the ascent, I noticed the boys attending the pump started dancing and making high fives. It was 12 o'clock. We chatted for a while, asking them for directions. I gave them 2 sachets each of UNO 8 in 1 coffee, got into the car and headed for the mountain.

I woke up to this view from my tent. Simply awesome.

I knew I had to eat before I sleep so just before the climb, I pulled over and wrapped 1 can of potato soup with a rag, taped it to the strut brace and was on my way, knowing the engine heat would give me a warm meal later. (now you know!) The drive was challenging. Unlike the "driveway" in Jabel Hafeet, this road was totally dark and had far more horse-shoe curves. I felt an increase in ear pressure so I rolled down a window. The road was not as steep as I expected and driving on ascending curves flexed the muscles of the 175 horses under the hood. After 45 minutes, the navigator declared that I have reached my destination. It was a point in the road where cars were parked in both sides. Tents were pitched and the paved road ended. Some 4x4s took up the challenge of negotiating the steep dirt road that continues to the military base at the top of the mountain. I didn't drive 3 hours just to camp roadside. The only direction I would go is up.



view from camp as seen by the naked eye

With only headlights to illuminate the road and a cliff on one side, I knew it would be fun!
In some ascents, you only see the hood of your car and considering that most of the mountains in the area are shaped like "Pride Rock" from the "the Lion King" I cant help but entertain the feeling that I might be driving to a cliff. It was the type of driving where torque in low revs was needed and I wanted no interference of electronics in my driving so I turned of the Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC). That gave me the ability to spin my front tires when needed- sometimes an essential in getting grip in loose gravel. Luckily, I did not have to trade gasoline for horse power as the road was well kept.

Finding a place to park near a good vantage point was easy as there was barely no one else on top. Taking some pictures, I noticed a silhouette of a stone table near the ledge of one peak. That was the place to make camp.

home for the night

Yes, there were stars and yes, they were affected by the ever-present light pollution. At first, I just enjoyed watching the lights of cars negotiating the road below and I started taking pictures. I knew my camera battery would not last long in this cold, which I could feel through my leather gloves. (the car thermometer registered 8 degrees) Settled in the comforts offered by my tent, I made myself a cup of coffee and opened the warm can of soup. I tried to brave the cold and take pictures but managed to only get a few before the camera battery decided it needed sleep. A tent, one yoga mat and two mummy sleeping bags- one as extra mattress and the other to crawl into. That would to it. Yes, I had a sweatshirt and a coat on. I felt so snug and comfy just like I was in a cocoon. 3 am. Goodnight, world!

6:30 am. the fone alarm woke me up. It was too cold to take my gloves off so I used the tip off my nose to slide it off. I wear an N95 mask when I sleep t keep my face warm and prevent frostbite in my lips. Feeling the cold LCD in my nose woke me up! I started chuckling at myself. It was comfortable but getting out of my cocoon of comfort was such a task. I feel you, butterfly! I was now awake. First light was breaking and I had to warm my camera battery for this.

I had a hearty breakfast, invited the first guy I saw but he shyly declined. He was bringing four asses (not the ones you stare at... the ones you ride on- donkeys!) to get hay supply for the stable below the cliff. I got him a paper cup of nice hot coffee. He was all smiles and said something before he left. I guess it was happy new year, he said. He didn't speak English.

I spent the day exploring the peak. I spent hours waking around, climbing rocks and meeting occasional hikers and giving them water and prime juice to prevent cramps and boost their energy. I drove further up to where the road ends. Apparently, it does not end. there is just a check point near the military base. One hiker said a passport is needed to get thru as that was Oman across the gate. I was too tired to get my passport in the car so maybe some other time.

Overall, it was a much needed getaway where there was nothing in my head except for the "here and now" situation. 2015, I'm ready!